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Cette page liste les différents fromages européens bénéficiant d'une appellation. Sont inclus les produits des pays de l'union européenne, de Suisse et du Royaume-Uni bénéficiant soit d'une appellation d'origine protégée (AOP), soit d'une indication géographique protégée (IGP).
AOP et IGP
modifierLes deux appellations, AOP et IGP, imposent que le fromage soit produit dans une zone géographique précise, indiquée dans la colonne "Région de production" dans le tableau ci-dessous. Cependant, l'AOP impose des contraintes plus strictes que l'IGP sur la méthode de production du fromage, l'élevage du bétail, et en particulier sur l'origine du lait.
L'AOP requiert que tout le processus de production se fasse dans la zone géographique: l'élevage du bétail, la traite, la production de fromage et généralement la production d'au moins une portion de l'alimentation du bétail doivent être effectués dans la zone.
L'IGP en revanche ne requiert pas autant et il y a une certaine hétérogénéité à ce niveaux entre les différents fromages IGP: certains fromages IGP, par exemple le Lietuviškas varškės sūris lituanien, peuvent être produit en utilisant du lait importé d'autres pays, sans restriction sur son origine, alors que d'autres fromages, comme le ser koryciński swojski polonais, impose que le lait provienne de la région de productio
Cas de la Suisse
modifierL'AOP protégeant les produits suisses n'est pas la même que l'AOP protégeant les produits de l'union européenne ou du Royaume-Uni. Cependant, les 12 fromages suisses AOP ont été inclus dans la liste ci-dessus car l'AOP suisse offre des garanties similaires. L'union européenne reconnait les fromages AOP suisses et inversement. Par exemple l'appelation suisse tête de moine est protégée dans l'union européenne, et l'appellation espagnole manchego est protégée en Suisse. Il y a cependant quelques exceptions à cette reconnaissance mutuelle des appellations:
- L'emmental, bénéficiant d'une AOP suisse n'est pas protégé en union européenne, où il désigne souvent des fromages industriels. Les noms emmental de savoie, emmental français est-central et allgäuer emmentaler sont protégés par des IGP et AOP européennes.
- Le reblochon, bénéficiant d'une AOP européenne, n'est pas protégé en Suisse où le nom reblochon peut désigner des fromages industriels.
- Le gruyère, bénéficiant d'une AOP suisse, est aussi protégé en union européenne, mais le nom gruyère désigne aussi un fromage français bénéficiant d'une IGP européenne.
Liste des fromages protégés par une appellation
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Pour tisliter
is a cow’s milk cheese that takes two distinctive forms, one in the German and Baltic north and one in Switzerland. In its northern incarnations it is a semisoft to semifirm rectangular washed-rind cheese, made both from raw and pasteurized milk. See washed-rind cheeses. Weighing 8–10 pounds (1.8–2.2 kilograms), at its best it has a pungent aroma, but is surprisingly balanced on the palate (especially if the sticky rind is removed). However, in the northern cantons of Switzerland, Tilsiter comes in round, pressed wheels with small round eyes, as opposed to the unpressed small slit holes in the northern version due to the curd being poured into the molds with the whey. It is brought to market with a dry rind and a strong taste, but has a sweetness that firmly points toward Alp cheesemaking traditions. See alp cheesemaking and eyes.
Although today the two cheeses seem hardly to resemble one another, they are historically connected. Tilsiter started as a round cheese, in the 1820s in the East Prussian town of Tilsit (today called Sowjetsk and part of the Russian enclave of Kaliningrad, between Poland and Lithuania). There a young cheesemaid, Frau Westphal, née Klunk (born 1790 and in some sources declared to be of Swiss origin), documented and standardized existing cheesemaking practices, giving it some new, distinctive features. It may have evolved from local variants in the Limburger style (Ragnitzer, Woriener, Brioler), affected by moving into new aging facilities with higher humidity (and therefore more prolific growth of Bacterium linens mold). See brevibacterium linens and limburger. The East Prussian dairy industry was influenced both by Dutch (Friesian and Flemish) Mennonites, religious refugees invited by the Polish king as colonists and dike builders in the sixteenth century, and Swiss economic refugees. The latter were invited to resettle the land after a pest epidemic of 1709–1710 and mostly worked as herdsmen and milkers.
Until the mid-nineteenth century Tilsiter was made and consumed only in East Prussia. At the end of the century two Swiss dairy workers returning to the Alps, Otto Wartmann and Hans Wegmüller from Holzhof near Biseg/Thurgau, started making Tilsit back home, the latter sometimes credited with writing down the Swiss Tilsit recipe in 1870 in Felben near Frauenfeld. At the same time as production was moving west from Tilsit along the Baltic, expanding to Schleswig-Holstein, it was also spreading from Switzerland into the Allgäu, where it is documented in the very early 1900s. In 1928 a school opened in Tilsit dedicated to the town’s most successful export. In 1934 the first German cheese regulation mentions it and in 1948 it became state-regulated in Switzerland.
In addition to the Dutch influence, Tilsiter was also influenced by Swiss cheesemaking practices: reheating the curd and the use of a cheesecloth to extract the curd from the vat are documented from nineteenth-century East Prussia. Tilsiter’s defining role in the north of Germany (where it came to stand for cheese as such, as opposed to being just one of many types in the south) also has historical reasons. In the 1800s the duchies of Schleswig and Holstein were renowned for their cattle. On the marshes of the west coast, along the North Sea, cattle were raised and fattened for meat, whereas on the gentle hills on the Baltic coast the main interest was butter, a valuable commodity internationally traded in competition with Ireland and the Netherlands. Dairies were described as “butter factories.” Here cheese was a byproduct of butter making and it was well known that the same factory could not produce good quality in both (in the literature of the time cheese from Schleswig-Holstein is described as very lean, dry, and tasteless; “leather cheese”). Cheese was not a commodity, but everyday staple fare. Today, northern Tilsiter is still meant to be consumed young (around three months) and is often flavored with caraway seeds.
Following the division of Germany, in 1961 East German authorities changed the cheese’s name from Tilsiter to Tollenser, after a lake in Mecklenburg, to avoid any East Prussian patriotic nostalgia. Swiss authorities reinstated the name Tilsit in 1981 (since 1993 Tilsiter Switzerland has been trademarked). In 2007 the town of Tilsit was officially founded in Switzerland, on the location where Otto Wartmann is said to have made the first Swiss Tilsit cheese in 1893; in 2009 it partnered with its Russian pendant, Sowjetsk. Since 1995 Tollenser has been protected by a PDO (protected designation of origin), linked to a designated production area in Mecklenburg. Many Allgäu dairies produce block-shaped Tilsiter, but it is rarely an exciting cheese. Since 2013 Holsteiner Tilsiter is protected by a PGI (protected geographical indication). At its best it can achieve an amazing depth in taste and aroma, especially when extra-aged (Hauke Koll at Ostenfelder Meierei being the best source), although it is rarely included in sophisticated cheese selections in Germany.
See also germany and switzerland. Bibliography
“Frau Westphal.” Milch und Kultur Rheinland & Westfalen e. V. http://www.verein-milch-und-kultur.eu/westphal.html.
Roeb, Frank. “Käsebereitung und Käsespeisen in Deutschland seit 1800.” PhD diss., Mainz University, 1976, pp. 99–104, 121.
Pour valtellina casera
is an Italian semihard, large, round cow’s milk cheese originally produced when cattle returned from the mountain pastures at the end of summer. Nowadays it is made all year round in the province of Sondrio and protected by a PDO (protected designation of origin) since 1996. “Valtellina” refers to the homonymous valley in which the cheese is produced while the local idiom “casera” (deriving from the Latin caseus) refers to the place in which the cheesemaking occurred and where the cheese was ripened.
The partially skimmed milk from two or more milkings is coagulated with calf rennet, and the curd is cooked at 104–113°F (40–45°C) for about thirty minutes, then cut to the size of corn kernels. The curd is transferred into molds and lightly pressed for eight to twelve hours; salting is dry or in brine for about forty-eight hours. It is ripened for at least seventy days at 43–55°F (6–13°C) and at a relative humidity above 80 percent. The final wheel is 14–18 inches (35–45 centimeters) wide and 4 inches (9 centimeters) high, with an average weight of 15–26 pounds (7–12 kilograms). The natural rind is hard and thin and the color varies from ivory to pale yellow as the cheese matures; the paste has irregular small holes and quickly begins to dissolve in the mouth, giving a creamy sensation, with flavors changing from milk to hay and nutty.
Valtellina Casera is an excellent table cheese and also plays an important role in traditional northern Italian dishes such as pizzoccheri (buckwheat tagliatelle with vegetables, melted butter, and cheese), sciatt (cheese dipped in buckwheat batter and deep fried), tarozz (mashed potatoes with green beans, onions, butter, and cheese), chisciöi (buckwheat pancakes stuffed with cheese), and polenta taragna (a combination of corn and buckwheat flour with melted butter and cheese).
See also italy.
Bibliography
Morandi, S., et al. “E. Tecnologia di produzione e caratteristiche microbiologiche del formaggio Valtellina Casera.” Scienza e Tecnica Lattiero-Casearia 55 (2004): 299–317.Find this resource:
Milena Brasca
Xygalo Siteias (or Xigalo Siteias)
modifieris a spreadable cheese that is produced exclusively in the Sitia region of Crete from raw goat’s or ewe’s milk or a mixture of both, from native breeds around Sitia. The word “xygalo” is connected to the ancient Greek word “oxygala,” meaning “acid” plus “milk.” It has been protected by a PDO (protected designation of origin) since 2011.
Ancient references to oxygala are found in Pliny’s Natural History, where it is described as a kind of salted cream cheese produced from goat’s milk. Dalby (2003) reports that oxygala was yogurt or something close to it, and that a cheese named oxygalaktikon was made from oxygala. Plutarch as well as Polyaenus said that oxygala was a food of the ancient Persians. It was likely the kind of cheese that needs souring of the milk, and from which the whey is always removed.
The region of Sitia has been connected with developed animal and cheesemaking traditions from the Minoan years up to today. There are written agreements from 1347 to 1450 c.e. on frequent loading of cheeses from the harbor of Sitia to Venice, Egypt (Alexandria), Cyprus, and elsewhere. Sitia is referred to as one of the seven regions of Crete in which sheep and goat farming dates to the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries. The production of Xygalo Siteias occurred mainly in the hot summer months. In the 1970s the first modern dairy plant in the region of Sitia was created. Today in Sitia there are two dairy plants with an approved installation code for the production of traditional milk and dairy products.
The main points in the particular acidification technology used for Xygalo Siteias production include fat standardization to obtain a low fat product, the addition of salt before acidification, two stages of acidification-maturation, a first for seven to ten days at 59–68°F (15–20°C) and a second for about one month at 50–59°F (10–15°C), and no stirring of the product during this time so that the desirable microbial flora from the environment necessary for the natural fermentation can develop.
Xygalo Siteias is white in color, spreadable, and grainy in texture, and without any rind. It tastes fresh, slightly acidic, and mildly salty. It is similar in density to Galotyri and Katiki Domokou cheeses but is less salty. It is eaten as a spread on bread, but also used in pies, salads, etc. In Greece it may be found on supermarket shelves and in restaurants in eastern Crete, and increasingly Athens and Thessalonica; the network CONCRED (Conserving Cretan Diet), which certifies restaurants that offer dishes according to the traditional Cretan diet, has chosen it as a characteristic Cretan appetizer.
See also galotyri; greece; and katiki domokou.
Bibliography
“The Cheeses of Crete.” Destination Crete. http://www.destinationcrete.gr/en/to-tiri/ta-tiria-tis-kritis.
Commission Implementing Regulation (EU) no. 766/2011 of 29 July 2011 entered a name in the register of protected designation of origin and protected geographical indications (Xygalo Siteias/Xigalo Siteias) (P.D.O.).Find this resource:
Dalby, Andrew. Food in the Ancient World from A to Z. London and New York: Routledge, 2003, p. 218.Find this resource:
Kurmmann, J. A., et al. Encyclopedia of Fermented Fresh Milk Products: An International Inventory of Fermented Milk Products. New York: Springer, 1992.Find this resource:
Tunick, Michael H. “Laws, Regulations and Appellations, Xygalo Siteias.” In The Science of Cheese, p. 203. New York: Oxford University Press, 2014.Find this resource:
Aikaterini Georgala
Zamorano
modifieris a Spanish sheep’s milk cheese from the province of Zamora, in the Castile-León region, made using milk from Churra and Castellana breeds. This geographical area has a strong pastoral and cheesemaking tradition. The first evidence of cheesemaking in this area dates from the Bronze Age over 4,000 years ago, and consists of clay pots with holes where the cheese was left to drain. There are also multiple traces and written records on the activities of sheep grazing and cheesemaking during the Roman Empire and the Middle Ages. Cistercian monasteries had a major role in the conservation of cheesemaking traditions from their origin in the twelfth century until their demise in the nineteenth century. Currently, the artisans combine traditional manufacturing methods with modern systems and protocols of quality control.
The cheese has been protected with a designation of origin (PDO) since 1993 (Commission Regulation [EC] No. 1107/96). Today, the PDO protects seventy-nine livestock farms that have 39,696 milking sheep (heads) that produce 465,134 gallons (1,760,727 liters) of milk per year transformed into approximately 794,958 pounds (360,587 kilograms) of cheese. Milk is coagulated at 82–90°F (28–32°C) for thirty to forty-five minutes, using animal rennet. Salting can be performed using dry salt or by submerging the cheese in brine for a maximum of thirty-six hours. Ripening takes place under 59°F (15°C) and at 75–95 percent relative humidity for more than one hundred days, during which the cheese is turned and rubbed with olive oil.
Zamorano cheese has a cylindrical shape, a distinctive zigzag pattern on the sides, and a pale yellow to dark gray colored rind. Usually, it weighs more than 9 pounds (4 kilograms). The texture of the mass is firm and compact. The flavor is intense, but not overpowering, very nutty and buttery, and slightly piquant.
See also spain.
Bibliography
Ferrazza, R. E., J. M. Fresno, J. I. Ribeiro, et al. “Changes in the Microbial Flora of Zamorano Cheese (P.D.O.) by Accelerated Ripening Process.” Food Research International 37, no. 2 (March 2004): 149–155.Find this resource:
Martínez, Sidonia, Juan A. Centeno, Inmaculada Franco, et al. “The Spanish Traditional Cheeses: Characteristics and Scientific Knowledge.” In Handbook of Cheese, Production, Chemistry, and Sensory Properties, edited by Enrique Castelli and Luiz du Vale, pp. 123–167. New York: Nova Science, 2013.Find this resource:
Javier Carballo
Valdeon (o. c. to cheese):
modifieris a PDO (protected designation of origin) Spanish blue cheese from Posada de Valdeón in the Picos de Europa Mountains of northern Spain. This is a region particularly known for its blue cheeses. Valdeón is a semifirm blue cheese. Each wheel is wrapped in sycamore leaves. Although this natural covering does not give any additional flavor to the cheese it allows the rind to breathe and prevents off flavors.
Valdeón is made from predominantly cow’s milk, as are most of the blue cheeses in the region; however it also has an addition of 5 percent goat’s milk which adds a touch of acidity to the cheese. Valdeón also uses a small amount of ewe’s milk at certain times of the year. The cow’s milk comes from the Parda breed, and the goat’s milk comes from the Florida breed, both of which are kept outdoors for seven months of the year. The milk used may be either pasteurized or raw.
Valdeón is dry-salted with rock salt, and cave-aged between two and four months before being wrapped in foil in most cases; however some are wrapped in sterilized sycamore leaves called “plageru,” a traditional practice that aids in handling. The cheeses have blue, and occasionally green, veins from the presence of Penicillium roqueforti and the paste is an ivory color with a buttery texture, gentle spice, and a good balance of salt. Valdeón eats well alone, although it can also be used as a welcome addition in cooking. It is best paired with a sweet white wine, for example a Muscatel.
See also blue cheeses and spain.
Bibliography
Harbutt, Juliet. World Cheese Book. London: Dorling Kindersley, 2009, p. 166.Find this resource:
McMalman, Max, and David Gibbons. The Cheese Plate. New York: Clarkson Potter 2002, pp. 211–212.Find this resource:
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